Ep 512: Volcanic Wines

ByElizabeth Schneider

In recent years, there has been a lot of buzz around “volcanic wines.” The term makes it sound as if these are wines that are spawned from a volcano, but in reality these are wines that many people believe have special qualities because they grow on volcanic soils.

In this show, I define the types of volcanoes before discussing the ecosystems they form. I then talk about the specific regions known to have volcanic wines, but I also point out that these areas have other factors that may create similarities in the wine – proximity to oceans, old vines (unaffected by phylloxera), and high elevations and cooling breezes. These must be considered, despite the fact that many of the volcanic wine groupies say flavor is purely from the soils.Here is the list of wines/places I discuss in the show:

Photo: Mount Vesuvius, Getty Images

Italy

Mount Etna, Sicily: Reds (Rosso of the Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio grapes), whites (Bianco, mainly of the Carricante grape)

Soave, Veneto: Whites grown on specific hillsides (Garganega, Trebbiano di Soave grapes)

Campania

Vesuvius:Whitesof Coda di Volpe, Caprettone, Falanghina, Greco.Rosés and redsof Piedirosso, Aglianico, Sciacinoso

Irpinia:

  • Taurasi DOCG and Aglianico del Taburno DOCG:Reds of the Aglianico grape. I mention Feudi di San Gregorio
  • Fiano di Avellino:May or may not be affected by the volcanic soil
  • Greco di Tufo DOCG:White of the Greco grape, the sulfur and compressed volcanic ash (tufo),and volcanic sand and clay, give the wines an acidity, minerality & flintiness that has clear volcanic influence

Basilicata:Aglianico del Vulture. Reds of Aglianico

Piedmont:Alto Piemonte. Red blends in Gattinara, Boca, Bramaterra

Umbria/Lazio:Orvieto. Whites of Grechetto, Trebbiano Toscano

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Greece: Santorini -White ofAssyrtiko. Lemnos -Red of Limnio

Spain:The Canary Islands/Las Canarias – Whites ofMalvasîa Volcánica, Malvasîa Aromática, Listán Blanco. Reds of Listán Negro

Portugal: Açores islands (the Azores). Whites: Arinto, Verdelho, Fernão Pires,Terrantez

Hungary:

  • North of Lake Balaton in Somló, whites of the Juhfark grape
  • Tokaji – sweet and dry whites of mainly the Furmint grape

US:

  • Oregon’s Willamette Valley
  • Some parts of Napa, Lake County in California

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